Jemaa el Fna by night

Once night falls, Jemaa el Fna dons its entertainer's attire. Exciting performance acts and live concerts help set this famous square alight.

All performers should spend an evening in Jemaa el Fna to understand the art of live performance. For centuries, this square has kept its audience firmly spellbound every night until 2 o'clock in the morning. Fire breathers share the limelight with everything from jugglers and acrobats to glass eaters. There are also boxing matches. But best of all are the Gnawa bands. I had been under the impression that Cuba provided the ultimate in terms of a sense of rhythm. Between the light of the Medina and fumes from kebabs on the open coals, these musicians breathe music into the simplest of instruments. Their heads turn continuously; they are literally possessed by the sound, and their energy is infectious. The other live acts in the square certainly have difficulty measuring up!

Enzo, 25, Neapolitan percussionist, 18 September '09 at 11.44pm.